The Galápagos Islands make up a volcanic archipelago in the Pacific Ocean. They are considered one of the world's foremost destinations for wildlife-viewing. A province of Ecuador, the islands lie about 1,000km off the coast. The archipelago’s isolated terrain shelters a diversity of plant and animal species, many found nowhere else. Charles Darwin visited in 1835, and his observation of Galápagos' species later inspired his theory of evolution. It is notably the home of giant tortoises, Darwin's finches, blue-footed boobies and super friendly sea-lions as well as every other sea creature you can dream up.
How do you get there?
For most travellers it's not the easiest destination to get to. For my group who had spent the prior week sightseeing and trekking in Peru, where we had altitude and cold weather to contend with, we boarded the plane in Quito bound for Galapagos via the coastal port city of Guayaquil, yearning for the return to sea-level and a week of sunshine and sea water. We used the Colombian airline Avianca from Quito to Baltra and they were pretty efficient. However not as efficient as the other airline we used on our travels around South America, LATAM. They considered anyone over 60 as someone that needs "special assistance" which meant you got to board the flights first. Luckily for me my husband is a young 61 years old so we were at the front of the queue at each airport!!
Arriving into Baltra airport mid-morning we were eager to jump aboard the luxurious Endemic Catamaran, which was to be our home for the next 6 days.
The archipelago can be visited either by staying on land on one of the larger islands or living aboard a sea vessel which is the preferred option as it provides you with the ability to see as many islands as you can and it also means you have instant access to the amazing sea-life that surrounds you.
We were incredibly spoilt as the Endemic was an amazing vessel and the staff and crew of the catamaran were outstanding. It has to be noted that all visitors need to explore the islands with a trained and registered naturalist and they ensure that all exploration is well organised and that the islands are preserved for all to enjoy now and for future generations. The Galapagos Islands offer a unique opportunity into discovering nature in all its beauty and wonder and the preservation of this wilderness is of utmost importance.
What fills the days?
Action and nature from dawn to dusk!!
Our daily itinerary was pre-arranged by our on-board naturalist and we were given detailed briefings every evening. You could opt in or out but who would not choose to jump on zodiacs daily to explore all the islands and the wonders they had to offer both on the land and in the ocean.
Each day after a delicious breakfast prepared and served by the chefs on the boat we got ready for whatever the first adventure of the day happened to be. After donning our life jackets we set out on the zodiac boats to be delivered to one of the islands in the archipelago for snorkelling or walking tours. Although the water temperature was a pleasant 22C most days, a wetsuit was desirable as our snorkelling time was up to an hour or more and it was easy to get chilly. The crew were happy to provide these but I had packed my brand new Lulu sleeveless wetsuit which I found perfect for this activity.
What Islands did we visit and what did we see?
Santa Cruz Island
We visited this island a number of times but our first trip had us landing ready to embark on our first nature walk. We were all excited to spot all the unique flora and fauna and we weren't disappointed. Land iguanas sunbaking, Darwin’s finches flitting between trees and amazing cactus trees all had us reaching for our cameras.
Our other visit to this island had us disembark in the main town, to board buses to go see the famous "Giant Tortoises" that are unique to the Galapagos. Seeing these giant pre-historic creatures in the wild was extraordinary.
We also had a quick visit to the breeding programme so that we could understand how small these land tortoises are when they hatch and learn more about their survival and habits. We also visited the Charles Darwin Research Centre that provided detailed information on all the species that the Galapagos Islands are home to.
After visiting a local bar for a few gin and tonics our afternoon on land was complete and our zodiacs whisked us back to the Endemic for pre-dinner drinks and canapes and then an amzing alfresco BBQ seafood banquet!
Santa Fe Island
Did someone say white sandy beach?? Sante Fe island delivered ten-fold. Our day of exploring the beaches of this island gave us the opportunity to meet the local super-friendly sea lions.
The sea lions were an absolute highlight of our whole trip as not only could you get up close to them in their natural habitat on the beach but over the days of snorkeling we also had the opportunity to swim with these playful beautiful sea mammals.
The Santa Fe marine iguanas were very at home in their paradise and spent most of their time sun-baking on the golden white sand or on the rocks lining the beaches. As reptiles, who are cold blooded, they regulate their body temperatures by lazing about soaking up the warmth of the equatorial sun.
The water off of Santa Fe island provided an afternoon of snorkelling into the deep blue sea and we were all excited by the array of marine life we found in those waters. After being dropped off the side of zodiacs with full snorkelling kit on we followed the guide to experience all the wonders beneath the surface.
Without a doubt the turtles were favourites amongst the group but we also were lucky enough to see Galapagos sharks and a multitude of fish swimming in large schools.
We lucked out on seeing the hammerhead sharks that usually frequent the deep waters but we all decided that maybe it was a sign that we may all need to return to Galapagos another time.
San Cristobal Island
On another day we visited Cerro Brujo on San Cristobal island. A brief walk up from the beach to explore the delineated pathways of the island brought us in contact with more unique flora and fauna. Sea lions, marine iguanas, brown pelicans and the famous, slightly odd looking, blue footed boobies.
We were so lucky to see a pair of these birds share the task of looking after the nest. The male boobie strutted up to the female who was sitting on the eggs and the female then waddled off for her "free feeding time" and the male took up the role of egg-sitting. You can tell the difference between the genders because of the differing hues of blue of their feet. It was a real David Attenborough moment.
Isla Iobos provided an afternoon destination off San Christobal island. Snorkelling off zodiacs to play with sea-lions was possibly the most fun swimming adventure we had. Many of our group picked it as the absolute highlight of their South American tour.
Every day brought another once in a lifetime experience!
Espanola Island
This island was one of my favourites as it had the most spectacular sandy beach and I got to swim the quick 1.5km from the catamaran into Gardner Bay.
The bay is mostly known for the gorgeous white sand beach, which is long, secluded, and features a colony of sea lions for some good photo taking. The surf in the bay is not particularly rough, and the swimming is excellent. If you're lucky, a sea lion may want to swim with you! The colony at Gardner Bay is quite friendly and unafraid of tourists.
The best part of a visit to Gardner Bay is the chance to go snorkelling off of Turtle Rock. Located just off the beach - a strong swimmer can make it there in less than ten minutes - Turtle Rock is a large rock formation that juts out of the water. When seen from just the right angle, the rocks look a lot like a giant sea turtle coming up for air.
On the side of the rock that is away from the beach, the water is a little deeper and there is a current, but it is there that you may see a white-tipped reef shark, manta ray or other spectacular marine life.
On the other sides of Turtle Rock, the water is calmer and shallower and is generally easy for novice snorkelers. Go slowly and you'll see lots of fish, including schools of surgeonfish, parrotfish, wrasses and maybe even a Moorish idol, if you're lucky.
As you're swimming around the calm side of Turtle Rock, keep a close on the bottom, which is sandy with rocks and small bits of seaweed. If you're very lucky and observant, you may spot a scorpionfish. And if you don't it doesn't matter because you have just swum through a marine wonderland and nothing can take away from the feeling of awe this natural environment has delivered.
If you haven't had enough action for one day the Endemic staff offer you the options of kayaking or paddle boarding off this island. You get to see sea-lions, frigate birds with red chests and turtles floating by as you work up a sweat before finishing the day with a quick dip off the back of the catamaran.
Punta Suarez
A trip to Galapagos is not complete without a bumpy zodiac ride out to see the colonies of waved albatrosses and the famous blow hole. Sitting in the middle of the ocean watching the huge sea birds take off and land on the sea is incredibly mesmerising. Alternatively the blow hole is an instant reminder of the power of the sea and all the dangers that these remote environments entail.
After each action-packed day we were so fortunate to return to the luxury of the Endemic catamaran. Our individual cabins were beautifully equipped with our own balconies and the upper deck was a great place to have sun-downers at the end of the magical days that the Galapagos Islands provided for us. Nothing beats a sunset, on a boat-deck, in the middle of no-where with your beverage of choice and the peace and tranquility surrounding you.
A trip of a lifetime! A bucket list adventure! A sensational 6 days with old friends and new.